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Page 143 CHAPTER XV. THE EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES, AND THE METHOD OF TRAVELING. Equipment; kinds of arms; quantity of ammunition. Supplies; quantity of provisions; kinds of. Buffalo, not depended upon. Advisable to drive cattle. Cooking utensils; few to be taken. Beds; kind of, preferred. Horses preferred, for the saddle. Mules preferable for the harness. Oxen preferred to horses or mules. Working cows; not advised. Good wagons should be selected. What horses and mules to be shod. Additional supplies; what to be taken. Method of traveling. Place of rendezvous; time of arriving at; time of departure from. Organization. Forming of an elliptical caral. Mid-day encampment. Forming a square caral. Nocturnal encampment. Method of guarding camp; of guarding herds. Territory of hostile Indians; extent of; method of traveling in. Defensive attitude; method of assuming. Horses, not turned out. Day and night guards; duty of. Fires extinguished. Elk in human form. Indians mimicing wolves. Guns carried loaded, but not capped or primed. Horses in chase of buffalo without riders. Large companies objectionable. Difficulties and dangers avoidable. Recapitulation. Conclusion. In treating of the equipment, supplies, and the method of traveling, I shall confine my remarks, entirely, to the over land route, which lies through the great southern pass; as the chief emigration, to those countries, is, at this time, by that route, which from present indications, is destined to become the great thoroughfare, between the States, and both Oregon and California. All persons, designing to travel by this route, should, invariably, equip themselves with a good gun; at least, five pounds of powder, and twenty pounds of lead; in addition to which, it might be advisable, also, for each to provide himself with a holster of good pistols, which would, always, be found of very great service, yet they are not indispensable. If pistols are taken, an additional supply of ammunition should, also, be taken; for, it almost necessarily follows, that the more firearms you have, the more ammunition you will require, whether assailed by the Indians, or assailing the buffalo. If you come in contact with the latter, you will find the pistols of the greatest importance; for you may gollop [sic] your horse, side by side, with them, and having pistols, you may shoot them down at your pleasure; but should you come in mortal conflict with the former, the rifle will be found to be much more effective, and terrific; the very presence of which, always, affords ample security. Being provided with arms and ammunition, as above suggested, the emigrant may consider himself, as far as his equipment is concerned, prepared, for any warlike emergency, especially, if nature has, also, equipped him with the requisite energy and courage. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Page 144
Very few cooking utensils, should be taken, as they very, much increase the load, to avoid which, is always a consideration of paramount importance. A baking-kettle, frying-pan, tea-kettle, tea-pot, and coffee-pot, are all the furniture of this kind, that is essential, which, together with tin plates, tin cups, ordinary knives, forks, spoons, and a coffee-mill, should constitute the entire kitchen apparatus. Bedding should consist of nothing more than blankets, sheets, coverlets and pillows, which, being spread upon a buffalo robe, an oiled cloth, or some other impervious substance, should constitute the beds, which are found much preferable, because of their being much less bulky, and weighty. Feather-beds are sometimes taken by the families, but in many instances, they find them, not only burthensome [sic] and inconvenient, but entirely useless, consequently, they leave them by the way, and pursue the course above suggested. Our common horses are preferable for the saddle, but it be- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Page 145
Good and substantial wagons should always be selected, and however ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Page 146
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Nothing now remains to be done, but to notice the method of traveling, which I shall proceed to do, with as much brevity, as is consistent with the importance of the subject. Emigrants should, invariably, arrive at Independence, Mo., on, or before, the fifteenth day of April, so as to be in readiness, to enter upon their journey, on or before, the first day of May; after which time, they should never start if it can, possibly, be avoided. The advantages to be derived, from setting out at as early a day as that above suggested, are those of having an abundance of good pasturage, in passing over those desolate and thirsty plains; and being enabled to cross the mountains, before the falling of mountains of snow, or floods of rain, which usually occurs, in that region, early in October. Before leaving the rendezvous, emigrants should, always, organize, by dividing into such companies, and electing such officers, as shall be deemed necessary. Having organized, they commence their onward, westward march, under the direction of their officers, and moving merrily on, they soon arrive at their mid-day encampment, when the wagons are driven up, so as to form a large elliptical enclosure, into which the horses may be driven, in case of an incursion, or an attack by the Indians. This enclosure is called a caral, and is formed, by dividing the whole number of wagons, into equal divisions, each of which, is under the control of an officer, who is designated for that purpose, and who moves on, in advance of his particular division, to the place pointed out, by the principal officer, as the encampment where one of the wagons of each division, is placed at the head of the encampment, side by side, about ten feet distant from each other. By the side of each of these, and about half the length of the wagon, to the rear of each, is another wagon driven; at the side, and half to the rear, of the latter wagons, are two others driven, and so on continually, until the rear of the enclosure, is as nearly, closed as the front. The cattle and horses, are now turned loose, upon the plains, where they are guarded and herded, by a guard, consisting of several persons, who are designated for that purpose; and who remain upon the plains, beyond the herds, until all have dined, and until the command is given to prepare to march, when they, immediately commence to drive the herds from all directions, toward the camp. Each now proceeds to catch, harness and saddle his horses, and yoke his oxen; and soon the caravan is again in motion; and moving onward, with increased speed, it arrives, in a few hours, at the nocturnal encampment. At this encampment, as at the former, the wagons are again divided, into two equal divisions, which now move, side by side, following their respective officers, until they arrive at the place designated, as the encampment. Here one of the officers, followed by his division, falls off to the right, and the other, to the left, forming right angles; and moving in opposite directions, to designated points, when the former division wheels to the left, and the latter, to the right, forming right angles, as before; when moving on, to another designated point, the former division again wheels to the left and the latter, to the right forming right angles, and continuing the same direction, until the two divisions, meet, and thus form large square caral or enclosure. Horses are now unharnessed; cattle are unyoked and all are turned together, upon the unbound- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Page 148
Nothing different from the foregoing, worthy of remark, occurs, from day to day, in reference to the method of traveling, until the company arrives in the territory of the hostile Indians, which commences at the Kansas river, and extends throughout the residue of the journey. Throughout all portions of the country, beyond the Kansas, emigrants are required to proceed with much more caution, especially, in the country of the Pawnees, Sioux, Shyanes [sic], Eutaws [sic], and Black-feet. Wherever there are evidences of hostile Indians' being in the vicinity of the company, it is advisable, always, to enjoin upon all, to avoid a separation from the main body of the company, and, at the same time, to keep an advance and rear-guard out, as the company is on the march. Should the guards discover an approaching enemy, the safest course is, to throw the caravan, at once, into a defensive attitude, which is very readily done, by forming a caral, in a manner, quite similar to that first described; the only difference being, that the teams of both cattle and horses, occupy the interior, instead of the exterior, of the caral, without being detached from the wagons. Being thus formed, the entire caravan assumes an impregnable attitude; the wagons affording complete protection to the women and children, as well as the teams, and at the same time, affording a secure breast-work for the men, should they be driven to the necessity of using them for that purpose. Upon the approach of the Indians, and their friendly designs, timidity or cowardice being discovered, the company is soon enabled to continue its march, as though no interruption had occurred. Upon many portions of the route, it becomes necessary thus to form the wagons, several times each day, in order to dispose of various marauding and war parties, with whom emigrants, frequently come in contact. In many portions of this country, it is found to be unsafe, to turn the horses or mules loose, upon the plains, either at night or during the day; instead of which course, they should be tied with long ropes to stakes, which are driven for that purpose, being well guarded, and moved from time to time, as circumstances may require. Whether this course should be pursued, is, of course, determined by the officers, in view of all the surrounding circumstances, which if adopted, is found to answer every purpose, of turning the horses and mules loose upon the plains; and it is much more convenient, as they are much more readily taken, when the company is in readiness to march. A sufficient and vigilant guard, should, always, be kept out, whenever the company is encamped, wheth- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Page 149
The Indians, being aware of this arrangement among mountaineers, have, in many instances availed themselves of the preference, which the above arrangements, give animals, in quadruped form, to those in human form. Being aware that, in human form, it would be very dangerous to approach the encampment of white men, in the night, they change their forms, and approach in the form of an elk, or some other familiar animal; but they usually prefer the form of the elk, as it is the most common animal in those regions. In order to effect the requisite metamorphosis, to enable them to enter the camp of the whites, they prepare the hide of an elk, entire, retaining his ponderous horns, which being thus prepared, is placed upon one of the most daring braves, who proceeds to the encampment; and, upon all fours, moves about the camp, apparently feeding as he goes, until he observes the greatest space between the sentinels, when he passes on, elk like, among the horses. He now goes on, from horse to horse, cutting the ropes with which they are tied, until he has loosed a greater part of them, when he throws off his disguise, mounts a horse, and, with most hideous whoops and yells, unlike an elk; he soon puts the horses to flight, and the guard to a nonplus; and leaving all in the utmost confusion, gallops swiftly away closely pursuing his numerous, frightened prey, when, soon, he is joined by hundreds of his villainous comrades. With the precaution, however, of securing the horses properly, within the caral, as before suggested, no danger whatever is; to be apprehended from the elk, in human form. Another method, by which the Indians effect an entrance into the encampment by deceptive means is by drawing near to the camp, in various directions and commencing a most tremendous howling, in precise imitation of wolves; and so perfect is the mimicry, that it is almost impossible to distinguish their howl, from that of the real wolf. By this deceptive course, the sentinels are thrown off their guard; for as they hear what they suppose to be wolves, in almost every direction from the encampment, and that too, very near, they are naturally led to the conclusion, that there are no Indians their vicinity, as wolves and Indians seldom occupy the same country together in harmony. In order to avoid the misfortunes which so frequently befall emigrants from the accidental discharge of firearms, guns should never be carried capped or primed; yet they should, always, be carried loaded, and otherwise in order for action, upon a moment's warning. More danger is to be apprehended, from your own guns, without ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Page 150
In hunting the buffalo, the greatest precaution should be observed, as the hunters are not, unfrequently [sic], attacked and robbed, of both their meat and horses; hence, it is advisable, that they should, always go out, in sufficient numbers, to insure their protection. The method of taking the buffalo, is either by approaching them unobserved, or by giving them chase, on horseback, and shooting them down as you pass them: the latter of which methods is, perhaps, preferable; and, hence, it is most generally adopted. In hunting the buffalo, emigrants are very liable to loose their fleet horses, which, after having been used a few times in the chase, with whatever timidity, they may have, at first, approached the buffalo, will, the moment buffalo are seen, evince the greatest anxiety to commence the chase; and, if restrained, in the least, they prance to and fro, under the steady restraint of the rider, or standing, they gnash the bit, and stamp and paw the ground, with all the wild ferocity, of those trained for the race course, or the battle field; and, unless perfectly secured, by being permanently tied or held, they dart away, and commence the chase without a rider. There have been numerous instances, upon the appearance of the buffalo, of their having broken loose in this manner, although saddled and permanently tied; and having commenced the chase at the top of their speed, until they arrived in the midst of the buffalo, when horses and buffalo together, leaped away over the vast plains, and were never seen or heard of afterwards. Companies should never consist of more than five hundred persons; for, as they are enlarged, the inconvenience, difficulties and dangers, are increased. The inconvenience of encamping a large company upon the very small encampments, to which emigrants are frequently necessarily confined, the difficulty of obtaining a sufficiency of pasturage, for such extensive herds; and the increased danger, arising from accidents, where large bodies of armed men, are thrown together, without the aid of military discipline; as well as the inconvenience and difficulty, arising from the protracted marches of large caravans, and the danger arising from the extreme tardiness, ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Page 151
The task assigned me at the outset, I have now, faithfully, though briefly, and imperfectly, performed; yet, notwithstanding its brevity and imperfection, it is hoped that it will afford some valuable and practical information, in reference to both those highly important countries. Nothing, however, has been attempted, but an extremely brief, though practical description of those countries, which was designed, to enable the reader, to draw tolerably correct conclusions, in reference to their extent, mountains, rivers, lakes, islands, harbors, soil, climate, health, productions, governments, society, trade and commerce; and to give the emigrant, such practical information, relative to the routes, the equipment, supplies, and the method of traveling, as is thought to be essential, to his success and safety: all of which, I have now done, as far as consisent [sic] with the extent of this little work, and my original design. In leaving this subject it is natural for us, not only to review what we have just seen, in reference to those countries, and to contemplate their present, prosperous condition, but also, to anticipate their condition, in reference to the progressive future. In view of their increasing population, accumulating wealth, and growing prosperity, I can not but believe, that the time is not distant, when those wild forests, trackless plains, untrodden valleys, and the unbounded ocean, will present one grand scene, of continuous improvements, and unparalleled commerce: when those vast forests, shall have disappeared, before the hardy pioneer; those extensive plains, shall abound with innumerable herds, of domestic animals; those fertile valleys, shall groan under the immense weight of their abundant products: when those numerous rivers, shall team with countless steamboats, steam-ships, ships, barques and brigs; when the entire country, be everywhere intersected, with turnpike roads, railroads and canals; and when, all the vastly numerous, and rich resources, of that now, almost unknown region, will be fully and advantageously developed. To complete this picture, we may fancy to ourselves, a Boston, a New York, a Philadelphia and a Baltimore growing up in a day, as it were, both in Oregon and California, crowded with a vast population, and affording ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Page 152
ERRATA. Page 4, line 14, for resource, recourse. 5, 5, arranged, arraigned. 8, 46, their, his. 23, 14, Cawlity, Cawlitz. 28, 23, Hootanie, Kootanie. 30, 14, Cawlity, Cawlitz. 33, 35, happens, happen. 37, 16, produce, produces. 38, 52, notice, a notice. 40, 2, a number, numbers. 45, 46, side, sides. 45, 47, side, sides. 48, 42, Whenever, Wherever. 49, 14, is, are. 52, 33, make, makes. 53, 8, consists, consist. 55, 23, settlements, settlement. 55, 47, have, has. 58, 16, is, are. 59, 35, Chonukes, Chenukes. 60, 4, Chenook, Chenuke. 61, 1, it, if. 61, 38, extend, extends. 64, 11, places, place. 69, 42, of my, my. 71, 19, in, on. 72, 19, gives, give. 73, 42, pour their, pours its. 76, 36, are, is. 77, 31, is, are. 79, 23, renders, render. 79, 49, is, are. 80, 37, Badago, Bodaga. 80, 38, Bodago, Bodaga. 86, 15, consist, consists. 86, 30, artimesia, artemisia. 88, 45, undigenous, indigenous. 91, 36, profusions, profusion. 92, 23, succeed, succeeds. 94, 2, exorcise, exercise. 102, 40, building, buildings. 104, 24, and several, with several. 109, 11, north, south. 111, 47, cause, causes. 118, 16, labors, labor. 118, 32, city, the city. 121, 33, droanishly, dronishly. 121, 38, this, the. 122, 7, were, was. 123, 14, imigration, emigration.
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